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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.